Some of the choices you have for putting to use your dried lavender flowers are discussed here:

Sachets or pouches – for those people, who have the skill to sew, make pouches or sachets with muslin cloth and fill them up with handfuls of dried lavender flowers. Use these under your pillow to fight insomnia and dream of beautiful lavender filled fields! Hang in clothes closets and drawers to ward off moths. Dried lavender flowers have and even a stronger aroma when it is warm so place them in sunny locations around the house.

Freshener – If you want to avoid sewing your own sachets, simply tie up some of the dried lavender flowers together into a loop by bending up the stems. Leave the ends free; tie the bunch with a ribbon. Hang the dried lavender bundle in your wardrobe to freshen up your clothes. A loop of dried lavender flowers can even be slipped under the seat of your car.

Gift wrappings – during the holiday season or for a wedding gift, use handfuls of dried lavender buds and flowers and add them to the wrapping. Dried lavender flower may also be spread at the bottom of the box before wrapping up the gift. Wedding/birthday gifts can be made special by adding some dried lavender flowers in the folds of tissue papers! These could also be added to greeting cards as fragrant confetti. Not only will the soothing scent of lavender bring a smile to the recipient, it will keep the gift fragrant for weeks.

Cooking – dried lavender flowers can be used to simmer over the stove. Lavender is a member of the mint family and increases the flavor and appearance of food. Try adding some dried lavender flowers to your salads for a fragrant flavor! English lavender is considered the sweetest and is used most commonly in cooking.

Soap and water, properly used, will not harm most finishes, but de luxe lacquered furniture, such as pianos, require special treatment. For other finishes, squeeze a soft cloth out of light suds to make it as dry as possible. Wash a small area, rinse it with clear water, again using a well squeezed cloth, and wipe dry.

Move on to an adjacent part and continue until the piece has been completely cleaned. And renew your suds as they go flat A soft brush inside the cloth will help on carved wood. This work must be done carefully and quickly because water should not stay on the furniture more than a moment or two. When it has dried completely, buff it to a lustrous finish with your favorite polish.

A whitish bloom after washing appears sometimes on furniture with a poor finish. Polishing usually corrects this. On varnished surfaces you can try wiping the furniture with a soft cloth moistened with pure raw linseed oil. For a shellacked piece use a cloth barely dampened with alcohol, wiping the surface very lightly in order not to remove any of the finish. Polish afterwards. The chances are that you will not know what the finish is, but if the furniture has been waxed, this makes little difference.

For the fine new piano finishes manufacturers rule out all washes, all polishes, and even the usual dusters. If the finish looks dull wipe it with an old, well-washed piece of chamois leather that is damp (not wet) and then remove the moisture with a second piece of dry soft chamois. New chamois leathers should be soaked in water for twenty-four hours before being used on a piano. If chamois is not available, dampened cheesecloth can be used.

Furniture polishes fall into two main classes, oils and waxes. Both have their advocates. After choosing the type you want to use, continue with it or you may find yourself in trouble. Even a little oil polish on a treated duster can gum up a waxed finish.

Both types are good if they are used correctly. Oil polishes however should be avoided for blonde finishes because they tend to make wood a little dark. Select a light colored wax. Some polishes clean as they go; always read and follow the directions given for the kind you select.

Apply polish sparingly. Whether you decide upon oil or wax for your furniture, the first thing to remember is that it should be applied very sparingly. If too much is used it will be difficult to achieve a fine polish. It is better for the furniture, and easier for you, to apply a second thin coating if this seems desirable, than to struggle with a heavy application that has made the finish sticky.

Rub polish well. The second thing to remember is that there is no substitute for hard rubbing; do only a few pieces at a time. After you have applied a thin coating of polish, let it stand a little while (consult the directions for your brand), then rub it with the grain of the wood until a clean finger leaves no mark. Finish with a soft flannel polisher, putting a brush inside the cloth for a good job on carved surfaces. And if you want the best results possible on chests and desks, you should take the handles off the drawers.

With only a little effort each week, beautiful furniture can enhance nearly every room of the house.

The main thing to understand about marble surfaces is that it, like granite, is a natural substance, which is porous.

Porous materials act like a sponge, soaking up any liquid poured on it. This is why one of the first things to do when selecting marble or granite as a building material is to ask if it will be sealed before installation. It is well worth the additional cost, if any, to protect your surface. Even though you may think marble is indestructible, it is not immune to stains and chips.

When cleaning a marble surface, first use either a soft bristle broom or a cleaning cloth based mop to remove any loose dirt or dust from the surface. Never use lemon, vinegar, or other acids, regardless of their strength. These can damage your surface irreparably. This includes orange or lemon-based soaps. Plain mild dish detergent is best-and rinses easiest. Ammonia and ammonia based products, while doing a good job at getting your marble clean, can dull the surface over time. Pay special attention to spills, especially oil-based spills, such as olive oil on a countertop. Try and clean these immediately with mild soap and water.

After the surface has been cleaned of all loose dust and dirt, use a soft, lint free cloth to wipe any prominent spots, taking extra care with oil-based spills. Use a sponge mop for floors. Use a large sponge or squeegee for countertops and tile. Rinse often. Clean marble surfaces with soap and water, making sure to rinse thoroughly. Do not leave soap residue on surface, as it will dry and cloud the luster of the surface.

Do not become alarmed if dark wet spots appear on the floor or countertop. As we mentioned earlier, marble is porous, and this is common, especially in surfaces which have not been professionally sealed. The spots will dry, usually in twenty minutes to an hour.

After your marble surface has been thoroughly cleaned and rinsed of any soap residue, you may want to use a commercial product to shine your surface. These products are easily available in most hardware stores. Check the label to make certain that the cleaner is for your type of surface, and ask the store clerk for assistance. Remember, it is preferable to ask a question than to damage your surface. Always use a clean cotton cloth to shine your surface, and remember, oil spills should always be cleaned immediately.

With care, marble is one of the most beautiful ways to complement your home. Keep it clean, and the compliments will keep coming.

Organising a garden shed can seem like an overwhelming job, but if it’s broken down into smaller tasks it can be achieved without you feeling discouraged. The first step is to make a plan, such as: the completion date, what’s going to stay in your garden shed, what needs to be thrown, and what type of storage equipment you need. Last but least plan the treat you’re going to give yourself after each task is completed!

Dealing with clutter in your garden shed

Tackling clutter in your garden shed can sometimes be difficult to deal with because of the ‘just-in-case’ scenario. A few guidelines may help you decide if you need to keep it or pitch it: if you’ve no idea what it is, if you haven’t used it for over a year, if it’s broken and can not be fixed, or if it’s broken and you’ll probably never get round to fixing it! It can help to deal with one area of your garden shed at a time, for example, starting on the left-hand side and working round.

Once you’ve de-cluttered your garden shed the next step is to sort your stuff into your categories such as: gardening tools and equipments, hardware and tools, outdoor sports equipment, decorating paraphernalia, power tools, and outdoor seasonal decorations.

Cleaning your garden shed

Now that you have everything in neat piles, you’ll probably need to give your garden shed a clean to remove the resident spider/s and spider webs, oil-stains, dried putty, paint, and general dust and dirt. Here are a few tips:

Spider webs – use a stick with some duct tape wrapped around with the sticky side facing outwards. A large broom or a vacuum cleaner is also effective.
Oil stain – remove as much liquid oil as possible with paper towels. Place a cloth saturated with hydrogen peroxide on the stain, wipe the area dry and wash your garden shed floor with a wood cleaner.
Hard putty – brush on paraffin oil. This dissolves the linseed oil in the putty and softens it for removal.
Oiled-based paint or varnish stains – carefully rub the affected area with a cloth dampened in a formulated paint remover.
Dirty surfaces – spray cleaner directly onto the surface and wipe clean. For caked on dirt, spray on the cleaner and allow it to soak for several minutes, before wiping clean. Rinse thoroughly with water and wipe clean.

Storage ideas

It’s always better to have your tools gathered in one place so that you could find the one you need quickly and easily. If you don’t have an appropriate place for keeping the tools you won’t have the motivation to put them back on their place after using. They’ll be scattered all over the house or the garage, making it very hard to keep an eye on them.

To utilise every inch in your garden shed so you can maximise your storage and work space there are several options available to keep your categorised stuff together:

Hanging hooks – they are excellent garden shed organisers for keeping your garden tools in one place.
Shelving – keeps your equipment tidy and in one place.
Containers – ideal for keeping your bits ‘n’ bobs in. Don’t forget to label them!
Pegboards – makes a handy area for hanging small tools, paintbrushes, and extension cords in your garden shed.
Tool box – try to purchase one that will grow with your collection, especially if you enjoy DIY or car maintenance.

If you have already forgotten what you have stacked in your peripheral rooms, you should consider cleaning them to be your new home project for the next month or so, because you will have a really hard time doing so without the rooms sparkling.

We advice to start with the attic and move down towards the garage and basement, because the attic is truly a room you have no practical use of being in other than to store furniture and boxes. The attic becomes your best friend, when storing memorabilia, antiques and documents. All of these groups need a well-isolated, dry place for shelter and attics by definition fulfil these requirements. Place your furniture to the back and group all your belongings into different corners. Files should go in one corner of the room, family photos and trophies should go in another.

Once you're done with the attic move to the garage. If you are one to embark on home improvement projects, then consider creating your own workshop area. Place your tools around the table and if it is space that concerns you, a simple peg board, where you can hang your hand tools. This clever use of vertical space reduces clutter and free prime space on your working station. No more pushing tools out of the way for you. If you have an excess of materials, which can't be stored in your garage without creating problems, move them down in your basement. Seasonal instruments can go as well, until they are needed.

What you have to consider with each of these rooms is that they have to be kept clean at all times so that they can effectively act as storage spaces.

If what you're really all about is getting bathroom mold corrections and cures, the rest of this article will help you out. But remember, the water problems must be found and corrected before any mold cleanup can be effective and permanent. Now let's talk all about how to eliminate bathroom mold. Bathroom mold can be stubborn. It seems to be a specific type of mold that can be very resistant. But fear not, we can beat this devil at his own game. You might say we're all very serious about beating bathroom mold.

There has been much written in the newspapers recently about the respiratory health problems that are often associated with mold. Since our bathrooms are often the dampest rooms in the house (even without water problems), they become a virtual breeding ground for dangerous molds and mildew. The perfect place for mold to start is between bathroom tiles, in the grout lines. Grout lines are all about being perfect breeding grounds for bathroom mold.

Maybe you've got one of Grannie's old "down home" recipes for an all natural cleaner that will smash mold to pieces. You need only one ingredient to make up this magic potion and you've probably already got a bottle of it in your bathroom medicine cabinet.

Ingredients:
1/2 cup 3-percent hydrogen peroxide solution (from your local pharmacy)
1 cup water

Directions:
1. Mix the hydrogen peroxide and water in a plastic spray bottle. Spray this on the moldy areas and do not rinse.

2. Let stand for an hour and then scrub vigorously. Repeat if necessary. Note: Hydrogen peroxide will lose its mold-busting power if exposed to air, so only make as much solution as you will be using at one time.

To further reduce mold in your bathroom, try these 3 easy steps:

1. Install an exhaust fan to remove mildew and mold-causing humidity from your bathroom. Be sure the fan has enough air movement to remove the moisture, and be sure to exhaust the fan all the way up through the roof or out the wall to the outside.

2. Mold dislikes light, so consider leaving a light on in areas that are prone to mold.

3. Change bathroom towels and rugs frequently to avoid moisture build-up.

4. Keep airflow constant. The combination of hot showers in small spaces creates an ideal environment for the growth of mold & mildew. Consider installing an exhaust fan or ceiling fan to improve ventilation in your bathroom. They can increase airflow and significantly slow the growth of mold & mildew. What if installing a fan isn't in your budget? Leaving your bathroom window slightly open when you shower can also help airflow.

Probably you are interested in how to remove different kind of stains from the leather furniture. We recommend acting immediately, if you notice a stain on the couch, for example. It is good to use some leather furniture cleaner, but if the stains are too stubborn, you can apply more effective cleaning solution.

Bubble gum: The first thing, which you have to do is to dry the gum. You can use a hair dryer. When it is completely dry, you have to remove it with a clean cloth. At the end you can apply some leather detergent.

Mold and mildew: You should make the following mix: water and alcohol. Then, it is good to pour it in a spray bottle. Do not forget to test the cleaning solution before applying it. You can make the try to some invisible place. If you skip this step, you can cause damages to the leather. When you have made the try, you can spray the cleaning solution on the problematic area and wipe with a clean cloth. If the cloth gets too dirty, you have to take another one. Repeat the process until the mold is gone. Then you can dry it, but avoid sun light.

Ink stains: You can apply hairspray or nail polish remover. When you have chosen the cleaning solution, you have to spray the stained area and blot the stain. Repeat the process as much times as necessary. At the end dry.

You have to dust the leather furniture every week. And it is good to vacuum it with the brush attachment every month. Wash the cushions, too, they accumulate a lot of dirt.

How to clean an exotic leather read here.

When it comes to cleaning, sometimes the most effective products are those found in our kitchen pantries. For instance, baking soda doubles as a wonderful household cleaner and is very effective at removing grease and food spatters from your cabinets. Just use two or three tablespoons of baking soda per cup of warm water and wipe using a sponge. Be sure to wring out your sponge before applying to the cabinet, as water can drip everywhere if you don't. Rinse off the baking soda solution by sponging clean with cool, clean water. Use a paper towel or clean cloth to dry.

Another excellent home remedy is vinegar. Straight vinegar rubbed on from a cloth or sponge can clean away the grease and food build-up in no time. Keep in mind, however, that the smell may linger for a day or two, but it won't last much longer than that. If your cabinets aren't too dirty, you can dilute the vinegar in a little warm water.

A mild dishwashing liquid also works well for cleaning the front of cabinets. A tablespoon or so in a cup of warm water should do the job just fine. For trickier bits of food that may be stuck, use a sponge with the green scrubbing pad. Try not to use a scrub brush, steel wool pad or any type of abrasives as these will only scratch the surface of your cabinet. Scouring powder is damaging to cabinets as well. If you have a mild, all purpose household detergent, this will work as well as the dishwashing liquid. A capful or two in a couple of cups of warm water is all you need. Before drying, sponge with cool, clear water to rinse.

If food is really stuck on, try scraping with a butter or putty knife, but be gentle. You don't want to scratch your cabinet. If you have heavy dirt and grime that can't be removed with ordinary household cleaners, you can try using paint thinner. Test a hidden part of the cabinet first to make sure you won't incur any damage. Pour the paint thinner onto a clean cloth or rag and rub until no more dirt can be removed. Common sense should prevail when using chemicals. Make sure the kitchen is well ventilated and never use around an open flame or even a pilot light.

For shiny wooden cabinets, an all purpose wood polish, such as those found in the supermarket, will polish the wood and bring out its natural beauty. Always check the label to make sure the spray is compatible with the wood finish of your cabinet and follow the manufacturer's directions.

As you can see, cleaning your kitchen cabinets really isn't a difficult job. In fact, if you go over them quickly once-a-month or so with mild detergent and some warm water, it should save your cabinets from the dirt and grease build up that happens with months of neglect. A little basic maintenance will keep your kitchen cabinets looking new and will keep you from doing a lot of scrubbing.

What do you do? No matter where you are, act quickly. The key to efficiently removing any stain is to act immediately. Go to the nearest rest room or kitchen sink and blot the stain with a clean, damp cloth until no more of the red wine can be lifted. Don't frantically rub on the stain to get it out, this will only cause it to spread, making your problems worse. Rubbing can also weaken the fibers of your garment causing tears and frays. Dampen the cloth and continue to blot until you remove as much of the stain as possible.

If there's a glass of white wine handy, immediately pour that over the red wine stain. White wine neutralizes the red wine and will make the stain vanish. With the stain neutralized, you can throw the item of clothing in with your next load of laundry, but a word of warning, don't throw any piece of stained clothing into the dryer unless the stain is completely gone. The heat of the dryer will cause the stain to set making it a permanent part of the garment. The same goes for the iron. Never iron a stain.

If a glass of white wine isn't immediately available, you have plenty of other options. Try vinegar, one of the greatest all-purpose cleaners of all time. Pour the vinegar onto a damp cloth and blot the stain until the wine is completely lifted. If needed, you can even pour the vinegar directly onto the stain to saturate before blotting. Once the red wine stain is removed, blot with a damp cloth. Your clothes might smell for the rest of the evening, but the scent is easily removed in the washing machine.

Here's another home remedy, mix a solution of one part mild dishwashing liquid (one that contains no bleaches or alkalis) and two parts hydrogen peroxide. Saturate the stain with this solution and let it presoak until you do the laundry. It may take two applications and two washings so be sure not to throw the item of clothing into the dryer until the red wine stain is completely cleaned. Another bubbly idea is to pour club soda directly on the stain and let it go to work. With luck, the stain will lift before your eyes. If not, a little gentle blotting is all that's needed. Once the stain is lifted, blot with a clean, damp cloth and launder as usual.

Sprinkling salt on the spot is said to lift the liquid from the stain. Coarse salts such as Kosher salt works best. Leave on for a few minutes and wipe salt away. Blot with a damp cloth until the stain is removed. Baking soda can be used in much the same manner. Sprinkle it over the stain and let sit until the wine is absorbed, wipe away, and blot with a cool, damp cloth. Launder as usual.

A paste of cream of tartar and water will also work to remove the red wine stain. Gently rub the paste into the stain and let sit. Remove the paste and blot with a damp cloth. Launder as usual as soon as you can get to a washing machine. As you can see, a spilled glass of wine doesn't make a ruined blouse. All you need is some quick thinking and a well-stocked kitchen.